Turtles, coconuts and tuna - exploring tropical Seychelles on a catamaran

This journey began long before the first step onto the deck. Like most trips to the Seychelles, it started in Warsaw with a long flight and a stop in the Middle East, usually through Doha with Qatar Airways or through Dubai with Emirates. In both cases the journey is comfortable and well organized.

Arrival on Mahé typically happens early in the morning, which is excellent for the crew. We have the whole morning to collect luggage, organize transport and reach the marina without any rush. I strongly recommend booking early check in at the charter base. After many hours in the air, being able to step on board, take a shower and drink coffee on deck is priceless.

The charter base in the Seychelles is located on Mahé, almost directly between the airport and Victoria. It sits on Eden Island, an artificial island developed around a large marina. This is where most charters begin and where nearly all charter yachts in the region are based.

The Seychelles truly belong to catamarans. Monohulls are rare, and for good reason. The Indian Ocean swell is noticeable and a catamaran handles it far better. Infrastructure between islands is limited, so comfort, space and independence are essential. A catamaran offers exactly that.

We chose a Lagoon 46, a proven and well designed yacht for this region. Flybridge with good visibility, a spacious bow lounge, generator, watermaker and air conditioning gave us full independence. This matters because in the Seychelles most nights are spent at anchor.

Late December and early January fall in the rainy season. Forecasts usually look dramatic, but reality is different. Rain comes in short intense bursts and then the sun returns. We had clouds and rain, but far more sunshine. Everyone came home deeply tanned.

One of the elements that made this trip exceptional was having a local chef on board from the first day. Mikel had worked as a restaurant head chef before the pandemic and later moved to yacht charters. He cooks true Seychellois Creole cuisine based on fish, seafood, vegetables, rice, coconut milk and spices. Not a hotel version of local food, but real everyday cooking.

Mikel had already completed provisioning when we arrived. After loading massive supplies, we departed immediately instead of waiting for the next day.

Our first short sail led us to Sainte Anne Marine Park. After anchoring we launched the dinghy and explored Île Moyenne. White sand, coconut palms, warm water and a sunset that instantly confirmed we were exactly where we should be.

Days in the Seychelles are short and long at the same time. Darkness comes quickly after sunset around 18:30, but daylight returns just as fast around six in the morning. Twelve hours of light is plenty if you use it well.

After returning to the catamaran, our first dinner by Mikel was waiting. Everyone understood immediately that the decision to hire a chef had been perfect. After such a long day, by nine in the evening the entire crew was already asleep.

The next morning I woke before the others, flew the drone over the small islands, went for a swim and made coffee. For coffee lovers I recommend Café des Îles, one hundred percent Arabica roasted locally.

That day I had a personal mission to catch a tuna. After breakfast we set course for Praslin. The plan was to explore the northern islands first, then return to Mahé for New Year celebrations with friends.

The distance from Sainte Anne to Praslin is about thirty miles, roughly four hours of easy sailing. After just over an hour the reel screamed. First tuna of the trip, small but full of emotion. Two more followed before lunch.

We anchored at Round Island near Praslin for a swim and lunch. In the Seychelles the most important skill is choosing anchorages protected from ocean swell. Some bays look calm but become dangerous when surf breaks on the reef. Especially around La Digue, careful planning is essential.

We reached La Digue in the evening. The next morning we rented bicycles, the best way to explore the island. Despite heavy tourist traffic we managed to find six bikes and started our ride.

Most roads are shaded and comfortable even at midday. We reached Grand Anse, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Seychelles. We spent the day there with lunch at a small beach restaurant.

On the return ride we were caught by heavy tropical rain. We arrived soaked. My drone also got wet but survived after drying. On the way back I bought a machete, which allowed us to open fresh coconuts on deck that evening.

The next day sunburn reminded us of the power of equatorial sun. We adjusted plans and visited Praslin for medical supplies. UV protection here is not optional.

We continued to Curieuse Island, home of giant tortoises. The animals roam freely and can be observed up close. They even have their own nursery.

That night we chose the comfort of the marina on Praslin. Dinner at Les Lauriers allowed us to taste a full range of Creole cuisine.

The following morning we sailed back toward Mahé. Two more tunas joined our catch. The best lure turned out to be a simple blue squid. Mikel immediately prepared fresh tuna sashimi.

Before New Year we returned once more to Sainte Anne for swimming and rest. That evening we met friends on Mahé. Over twenty people celebrated together in a beachfront restaurant. Dancing barefoot on warm sand felt like the perfect New Year.

On the first day of the new year we gathered again at Moyenne Island for a shared lunch. Mikel prepared enormous red snapper, fresh tuna and Creole dishes. Food remained one of the strongest memories of the entire voyage.

Friday was our closing circle as we explored the southern coast of Mahé. I caught two final tunas, the largest of the trip, bringing the total to seven.

Our last day was spent on southern beaches. In the evening we returned to Eden Marina and completed check out smoothly.

One final reflection on charters in the Seychelles. Even our 2023 yacht showed visible wear. This is common here. A charter yacht in the Seychelles is not luxury, it is a tool for exploration. The true experience happens in the anchorages, the water and the islands themselves.