Slow sailing in the Northern Sporades

A two-week cruise around the Northern Sporades was something new for us. The region is beautiful, but logistically a bit more demanding. There aren’t many flights to Skiathos, the airport is small, and the landing itself is impressive — the runway starts literally at the water’s edge. But getting to the charter base is extremely simple. Five minutes by taxi, 10 euros, and we’re at the marina.

The base holds only a few dozen yachts. You feel it immediately — less traffic, a more local vibe, none of the big charter industry we know from Athens or Lefkada. We arrived earlier with Sara, while our Italian crew was due to show up in the afternoon. During that time we handled the check-in and prepared the boat for the trip.

For this trip we had an Oceanis 46, and I like sailing Beneteau boats. But here you could tell that the competition is small. The Greeks don’t feel pressured to keep the yachts in perfect condition. Ours was a bit worn and not cleaned particularly well. That’s the downside of chartering in a place with a small fleet and low rotation.

A fun fact about the Northern Sporades is that this is where the Meltemi is “born.” The well-known northerly wind forms when a high over the Peloponnese meets a low over Turkey, creating a kind of wind tunnel. Here in the north it’s just starting to build, so conditions are calmer than in the Cyclades. It blows, but usually in a way that makes sailing enjoyable rather than a fight for every mile.

Ahead of us were two weeks of cruising around islands that have a completely different rhythm than the rest of Greece. Even at the start we felt this would be a calmer, more local cruise — one where the sea and the crew matter more than big ports and crowds of tourists.

The first days reminded us why we love Greece. Right after leaving the marina, our usual rituals returned: freddo espresso metrio — the only place in the world where I drink coffee with sugar — and a quick gyro in pita as a steady part of experiencing Greece. In the Sporades you also feel the contrast with the Cyclades — here it’s green, the islands have pine-covered slopes, nothing is scorched by the sun. A different, calmer atmosphere.

After taking over the Oceanis and doing some quick preparations, we left Skiathos marina for our first bay. The night before had been tough, with a long flight and bad sleep, so we wanted to start easy. Unfortunately the beginning had a downside — I clipped the shrouds with the drone while filming and it dropped into the water. We were anchored in deep water, so there was no way to retrieve it. A start with adventures.

The forecast showed a bit more wind for the first days, so the plan was simple: instead of heading straight east into the Sporades, we went west, toward the peninsula below Volos. The goal was Trikeri and the bays around it, sheltered and good for waiting out stronger wind.

The first two days were calm sailing in that direction. Trikeri itself turned out to be a great spot, but entering the port required attention. Dropping anchor there isn’t easy — little space and a chance of tangling with moorings. What helped was calling ahead to the restaurateur whose taverna is right on the quay. It’s an old, reliable Greek trick: before you start maneuvering, call the restaurant where you want to have dinner. Usually someone will come out, give instructions or even help with lines. It saves stress.

One of the best things in Greece is that once you dock, you can step on land and within a minute sit at a table in a taverna. We immediately ordered freddo espresso, fresh orange juice, and a few simple snacks. Feta saganaki and grilled halloumi are our classics. Right next to us, hanging on wooden poles, an octopus was drying — a typical sight that always reminds us where we are. The port moved a bit because Trikeri isn’t fully protected, but it was still pleasant.

We headed back east, this time upwind, around 15 to 20 knots. The Oceanis handled beautifully and the sailing was enjoyable. We passed Skiathos, anchored in one of the bays, and continued toward Skopelos.

The Sporades have something that’s often missing in Croatia or on the rocky Ionian islands — beaches. On Skiathos you can find plenty of sandy beaches where you anchor close to shore and reach land with the dinghy in two minutes. Perfect for families. The downside is the motorboats cruising all day, creating waves, so the anchorage isn’t always calm. But the simple fact of stepping barefoot on soft sand in Greece is already a big plus.

For the night we entered the western bay of Skopelos. It’s deep and well sheltered. We anchored “the Greek way”: anchor in the middle and long yellow stern lines to the rocks ashore. A simple maneuver that gives peace of mind. Behind the stern, a turquoise swimming pool formed — safe, without drifting around at night as on a free anchor.

The crew immediately took the dinghy to the beach. We planned this trip as a family-oriented, calm cruise. Two weeks is plenty of time not to chase every island but to stay a whole day in a bay, swim, relax and simply rest.

Our plan from the beginning was clear: at the end of the first week and the beginning of the second we wanted to reach Kira Panagia. It’s a national park known for incredible turquoise waters, some of the most beautiful in all of Greece. On the way we passed an interesting wreck partially thrown onto the shore. A perfect spot for a break, lunch and a quick swim. The wreck rises well above the water, so it feels more like a place for climbing and jumping than classic snorkeling.

The main idea of the trip was to search for bays with beaches and small tavernas. We’d drop anchor, spend the whole day in one place, the kids played in the water, and we enjoyed freddo espresso, relaxed and savored simple Greek food. In the evening — dinner at a taverna right on the beach. Unhurried, slow, exactly how we like it.

At the end of the week we reached Kira Panagia. And that’s where your jaw drops. The turquoise water was so intense we hadn’t seen anything like it in a long time. Crystal-clear water, silence, space. You’ll see it in the photos, but in person it’s even more impressive.

We sailed with two small children, so our pace was slower. That suited us. We could finally really slow down, fall into the rhythm of sailing.

From Kira we headed to Alonissos. There you absolutely have to try the island’s local specialty — a spiral baked cheese pie. The island is known for it. Add high cliffs and beaches. On the way we explored every second bay, swam a lot, ate, and enjoyed the sun.

Interestingly, we consciously skipped the town of Skopelos — the one from the “Mamma Mia” movie set. The crew felt it was too touristy and didn’t fit our calm, family-style trip. We preferred quiet bays and evenings at small tavernas.

Finally, after two weeks, we returned to Skiathos. And I can say confidently: the Sporades are fantastic. Uncrowded, green, with good weather and good wind.