Sailing and exploring Kornati National Park onboard Elan 45

Sailing trips starting from Zadar have something special about them. It’s a port we always return to with pleasure — not only for its atmosphere but also for its convenience. The airport is just a short drive from the marina, so after a quick ride by bus or taxi, you can already be on board, breathing in the sea air. Our trip began in July, on the day Iga Świątek won Wimbledon — a symbolic and lucky start to a week on the water.

The crew arrived shortly after me, once the yacht had been checked out from SunTourist, our partner charter company. This time we sailed on an Elan Impression 45 — a boat I really like for its balanced handling and solid build. On board we had a full-batten mainsail, solar panels providing energy independence, and comfortable seats on the stern — perfect for watching waves and sunsets. After a short safety briefing and yacht walkthrough, we set off for our first passage, heading toward the northern end of Ugljan Island. In a quiet bay, we dropped anchor, jumped into turquoise water, and as the sun set in the west, we officially started our Croatian adventure.

The next day we sailed toward Molat — my favorite island in northern Dalmatia. The water was colder than usual this year, as spring hadn’t been particularly warm, but the clarity and color of the sea were as beautiful as ever. We anchored in one of Molat’s coves, tied stern lines to shore, and took the dinghy to the village. The day ended with dinner by the water and conversations about plans for the days ahead.

In the morning, we set course for the northern part of Dugi Otok to visit a wreck from the 1980s — a several dozen-meter-long ship that has become one of the main snorkeling attractions in this part of the Adriatic. We dropped anchor nearby and spent the morning exploring the site underwater. The weather was perfect, and a gentle eastern breeze kept us steady.

In the afternoon, we moved down to Pantera Bay — one of my favorite spots in all of Croatia. It’s calm and wide, with a view of the distinctive Veli Rat lighthouse. The panorama from its top is breathtaking, especially at sunrise and sunset.

The following day we headed south to the port of Sali. There we restocked supplies, bought entrance tickets to Kornati National Park, and made a traditional sailor’s stop for coffee and ice cream. After a short break, we continued through the narrow channel between Telašćica Nature Park and Kornati — a passage that always brings excitement. Marked by red and green buoys, it requires precision and focus to navigate.

That evening we found a quiet bay in the heart of the Kornati islands. The sun set behind the horizon, and we lay at anchor in complete silence. I climbed a hill to get signal and finish a few yacht bookings. The view from above — calm sea, orange light, and the scent of Mediterranean herbs — made working in those conditions a pleasure and at the same time, a complete abstraction.

Kornati National Park is one of the most extraordinary places in the entire Adriatic. The archipelago consists of over 80 islands, islets, and rocks scattered across turquoise waters like stones thrown across a desert. Its raw, almost lunar landscapes contrast sharply with the deep blue of the sea, creating a view unlike anywhere else in Europe.

Though today the Kornati Islands appear uninhabited, for centuries they were used by shepherds and fishermen from nearby islands. You can still see the dry-stone walls (suhozidi) that once divided pastures, as well as small stone huts where people sought shelter from the sun and wind.

What fascinates most about Kornati is the silence. When a yacht drops anchor in one of its many coves, the only sounds are the wind, the gentle lapping of the water, and the faint ringing of goat bells drifting from a distant island. The Kornati have something meditative about them — they are a place where time naturally slows down.

The next day we continued sailing through Kornati National Park. Along the way, we passed ruins that looked ancient but were actually remnants of a film set. Croatian July offered ideal conditions — steady wind and calm sea. We sailed slowly, enjoying every mile.

On the island of Žut, we stopped in a small cove. There, at a seaside konoba, we spent the evening having dinner with a sunset view. Places like this are the essence of sailing in Croatia — hidden among rocks, accessible only by sea, with an atmosphere you can’t recreate. And with prices so high they’re hard to beat.

The final days of the trip passed peacefully. We sailed around Iž and Rava — small islands known for their quiet villages, limited berths, and a few restaurants serving classic Dalmatian food.

Finally, we looped around Ugljan and returned to Zadar. After a week at sea, we finished exactly where we began — with wind in the sails and a sense of time well spent. It was a trip full of sun, good weather, and true sailing spirit — exactly what midsummer in Croatia should feel like.