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Sailing in the Ionian Sea

Writer's picture: Aleksy DuchnowskiAleksy Duchnowski

Updated: 3 hours ago

The Ionian Sea, located on the western coast of Greece, is known for its calm waters and mild sailing conditions, making it an ideal destination for sailors of all levels. The region shares similar weather patterns with Croatia, where northwesterly winds prevail. In contrast to Greece's more exposed regions, like the Cyclades to Meltemi, the Ionian islands offer sailors gentler conditions, especially in the sheltered east.

Our sailing adventure spans four main islands: Lefkada, Meganisi, Ithaca, and Kefalonia. We started in Lefkada, a vibrant city connected to the mainland by a narrow bridge. With its canal dating back to ancient times, Lefkada is a bustling port that marks the beginning of many sailing trips. Though busy, especially on change-over days, it’s well-communicated with the airport and provides an excellent starting point.

Our first stop was Meganisi, an island seemingly designed for yachting, known for its deep, sheltered bays and a dense variety of anchoring spots. In Greece, it’s mandatory to have two 50-metre yellow floating ropes and boats usually get longer anchor chains, which work perfectly for the anchoring method typically used in Greece, which I like to call “El Greco.” This technique involves anchoring and later mooring the aft of the boat to the shore with two lines, one on each side. Meganisi’s unique geography allows for easy use of this method, offering a secure and picturesque mooring experience.

Next, we headed to Ithaca, famous for its association with Odysseus. While the town of Vathy quickly fills with visitors, we made a brief stop to refill our water tanks and enjoy a refreshing espresso freddo before seeking shelter from an incoming storm. I ensured we found a deep bay to wait out the weather, keeping the boat and crew safe until the storm passed. Once the skies cleared, there was plenty of time to explore the island’s beautiful bays by stand-up paddleboard (SUP) and relax on the beach. The crew particularly enjoyed the traditional Greek dishes we tried, such as saganaki—fried cheese—and lamb in rich tomato sauce, both staples of the region.


Bali catamarans anchored in the bay

Kefalonia, our next island, is known for its stunning natural features, including the vast caves in its northern region. These caves seem to stretch endlessly, with tunnels that go deep into the landscape. Accessing the hidden beaches by dinghy was an adventure, and flashlights were necessary to explore the mysterious caverns.

While the southern coast is famous for its sea turtle breeding grounds in Argostoli Bay, I advised the crew against the long 50-mile round trip to avoid excessive sailing time. Instead, we focused on a more leisurely exploration of the island. This decision allowed us to relax more and was a smart choice, given the crew’s preferences.


Bali 4.4 and Bali Catsmart anchored in the bay on the island of Kefalonia

As we sailed back to Lefkada, we took advantage of the westerly winds funnelling between the islands, creating thrilling sailing conditions. This was quite different from the lighter winds we had earlier when heading in the opposite direction.

During the trip, the main halyard of the catamaran became twisted and tangled while lowering the sails. I had to climb the mast at sea to untangle it and bring down the sail. Later, at port, the crew, curious about the experience, took turns going up the mast themselves, enjoying the view from the top.

When researching images of Kefalonia and Lefkada, you might often come across towering cliffs ending in sandy beaches, primarily on the islands’ west sides. While these areas are stunning, they are more exposed to northwesterly winds, creating swell and adding extra nautical miles to the trip. That’s why I always balance the route with crew expectations and consider the distances. Sailing with a professional but approachable skipper helps make sure the crew feels involved and understands the route decisions.

For crews looking for their second sailing adventure in Greece, the Ionian Sea offers a fantastic alternative to the Saronic Gulf and the Cyclades. While the Cyclades are known for their strong winds and challenging conditions, the Ionian islands provide gentler, more protected sailing, making them ideal for a relaxed experience. Though there are fewer ancient ruins compared to the Saronic Gulf, the turquoise bays, diverse landscapes, and calmer waters of the Ionian more than make up for it, offering a perfect balance of natural beauty and smooth sailing.


many sailboats and catamarans anchored in the blue bay on the island of Meganisi

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