Sailing blog

Undoubtedly, the Split region is the most popular sailing destination in Europe. Over the past few years, I've visited several ports and bays, from the medieval atmosphere of the city of Krk to the deep bays of the island of Mljet. In this post, I'd like to share a few places that I enjoyed visiting the most in the vicinity of Split.

Stomorska

In this area, my absolute favourite port is Stomorska, a small town on the island of Solta. The marinero, with its playful approach to life, creates a rather laid-back atmosphere for maneuvers, although they rarely answer the phone. On the other hand, it's worth calling ahead, not to the port office, but to the Volat restaurant, to make a reservation. I recommend trying the region's typical gnocchi, especially the salmon-flavoured ones. At the northeast end of the bay, there's a small beach if anyone wants to take a dip before the end of the day. However, in my opinion, it's better to head to the beach bar on the other side. From there, you get a view of the mountains towering over Split, and the setting sun often covers the grey slopes in shades of pink.

To the west, there is the fairly deep Necujam bay. At the very end, it's worth anchoring in El Greco style, dropping anchor in the middle and then securing the lines to the rocks on the shore. The bay is a popular spot for day trips from Split, thanks to the sunken wreck.

Stari Grad

The island of Hvar is one of the largest in the region. The place I always try to visit is Stari Grad, a town founded by the ancient Greeks, one of the oldest in the region. A reservation in the port is necessary at least two days in advance, and it's good to specify a request for a location in the southern part of the port; it'll be much closer to the center. I often just send an SMS with a reservation request, using Google Translate for Croatian.

It's worth strolling through the streets of the town. Once, I even came across a group of archaeologists looking for ancient remains of the settlement's beginnings. In one of the buildings along the pier, homemade wine is sold, and in my opinion, it's the best value for money I've found in all of Croatia.

Sveta Nedilja

A very small port, for only a few boats; the whole place is essentially a restaurant. The food itself stands out significantly, perhaps except for the prices. However, it's worth being there for the atmosphere alone. The place is located at the foot of the cliffs. 

The restaurant building, entirely made of stone, blends with the construction of the waterfront. It's also quite interesting that under the restaurant, in a kind of underwater cellar, wine is produced and stored. The underground can be toured, wines can be paired, and you can look through underwater windows through which fish peek.

Milna

Located at the end of a deep, well-sheltered bay. There are plenty of marinas—three, in fact—but the only sensible option, in my opinion, is a spot along the old town of the ACI Marina. The center is charming, steeped in history, and most buildings have a creamy stone atmosphere. It's best to sit in one of the comfortable chairs and tables set along the waterfront. From there, you can watch the incoming boats and enjoy the atmosphere around you.

Vrbovska

A small town hidden in the less-visited northeastern part of Hvar. Known for its many bridges over the river flowing through the town, it's called Croatian Venice. The low waterfront level sometimes causes parts of the town to be flooded under unfavourable weather conditions. It has the atmosphere typical of smaller ports in central Dalmatia. □